St. Jean to Roncesvalles

Today was an amazing climb from St. Jean Pied de Port to the top of Col de Lepoeder at 1450 meters. I went to bed early so that I would be ready for what was described as an arduous climb up to the top of the Pyrenees. I was so excited to begin the Camino that I woke up every two hours to check my watch and see if it was time to get up and start yet.

I met up with Chris from Virginia for breakfast on the street. Since I was leaving early to beat the heat of the day, none of the stores or restaurants would be open. Breakfast was whatever I could find at the store after I got in to town yesterday. I have to says that a tomato, cheese, and bread can make a great start to the day, but I was missing my coffee.

I started out from the Church of Our Lady at the End of the Bridge, Notre Dame du Bout du Pont. She must have blessed my journey today because the climb was not as painful as everyone has said and I arrived at Roncesvalles without a blister.

The walk today was about 16 miles, but you need to add about 4 more miles to that distance when you adjust for the vertical climb. Accrued ascent was about 1400 meters.

The hike was beautiful and eventually I was above the cloud layer. Because of the fog I had a hard time finding the trail markers. A song by Scott Miller and the Commonwealth came into my head about losing my way. I think on any journey, spiritual or physical, it is important to know when you are lost and stop. At one point today I had no clue whether I was on the trail or not and so I consulted my map and waited in the fog. Eventually an Austrian couple came along and assured me that I was okay. I only hope I can be that reassuring to others along the way.

Tonight I will con-celebrate the pilgrim Mass at the Iglesia Santa Maria with Fr. Jesus. Following the blessing for the pilgrims at the end of mass there is a simple pilgrim's dinner in the 12th century monastery ruins.